Lissner - Pinot Gris 'Bruch' 2019
This Pinot Gris also comes from the Dionysiuskapelle lieu-dit where a Roman chapel was once built, just as the Sylvaner and Pinot Blanc Lissner makes here. The whole grapes macerated for four weeks before being pressed into demi-muids and 500ltr barrels for ageing. Similar to a light red, this wine has rustic and fresh tannins with a crunchy and spiced fruit. Most other orange wines we offer in the store only macerate on the skins for two weeks, so this wine is slightly crunchier, earthier (and also more delicious). For drinking now to 2023.
We met Théo Schloegel of Lissner at an obscure natural wine tasting in Ghent. His wines were like a strike a lightning, a moment of clarity during a scene of dullness. Wines with expressive salinity, showing the Alsatian Wolxheim terroir. An inspiring visit followed.
The Lissner domaine spans 9 hectares in the appellation Wolxheim, soon a completely organic appellation, pretty cool. The winemakers at this domaine, founded in 1848, are father Bruno and son Theó Schloegel.
Bruno, an agronomist and scientist took over his uncle's Clement Lissner's domaine in 2001 and was soon joined by his son Théo. They work their vineyards organic, but that's really just a small part of their story. Inspired (as are we) by Fukuoka's book 'The one straw revolution' they treat their vineyards differently from what we have seen anywhere else.